CW2 Powerpoint

Explore Research B FT1505

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Bibliography 1

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Bibliography 3

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Bibliography 2

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Boudicca

The talk with  Zowie Broach from Boudicca was both inspiratonal and fulfilling.  She stated that it was okay to think of subjects which have no relation to fashion or art.

Zowie and Brian, Explore Research B 2011

The duo who both studied at Middlesex Polytechnic, established Boudicca the label in 1997. In 2002 they showed their first collection at London Fashion Week.

The company was named after mythical figure and female warrior queen Boudicca (Boadicea) of the Iceni people in Eastern England. She was the one that made political decisions without the presence of men.

Queen Boudicca, Bookish 2011

Autumn/Winter2006, vogue.co.uk 2006

“We are driven by ideas not money….pure creative drive”- Zowie Broach, March 2012.

Autumn/Winter 2004, style.com 2004

The designers have filed for bankruptcy on several occasions. After doing a few catwalk shows they realised the expense of displaying their clothes for a few minutes. They have and are still considering others ways to maintain the staying power of the brand.

Wode: The fragrance

Wode fragrance, A,Frost 2008

The idea behind the fragrance which sprays blue but quickly disappears related back to Queen Boadicea.

The warrior and her tribe would paint themselves in a cobalt blue paint giving them a mythical look when going to battle.

Queen Boudicca covered in blue, J, Bratton 2009

Queen Boadicea killed herself after defeat to the Romans by swallowing the hemlock which is an extract from Wode.

Wode spray cans, A, Frost 2008

The fragrance comes in a spray can and when it touches the clothes or skin it is a vibrant blue but eventually it fades and leaves only the scent.

Wode on my skin, 2012

as it disappears....

 

Zowie finished the talk by stating that its important that as designers in a competitive industry its necessary to fcous on strengths and what we WANT to do as designers.

 

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British Style Genius: Part 5

British Street Style

The Teddy Boys

In 1954 a sub-culture called the Teds existed.

Teddy Boys 91peachykeen.blogspot.co.uk 2011

They came before the Rock ‘n’ Roll era and wore long jackets dressed in an Edwardian style.

Characteristics:

  • crepe sole shoes
  • wore drain pipes which had to be both 15 inches wide and the hem and knee
  • jackets with velvet collars and cuffs
  • Oxford gentlemen
  • taken on by selling black market goods
  • classed as hooligan
  • carried flick knifes which became symbolic
  • embraced Wild West Style
  • listened to American music
  • bright coloured socks

 

The Mods

The Mods were clean cut and subtle regarding rebellion. They remained well-dressed while working.

Mods, theshallows.logspot.co.uk

Mods were inspired by French cinema, Jazz and ‘la dolce vita’

They were often seen driving around on scooters.

Typical Mod scooter, Allposters.com

Style paid very careful attention to detail. Trousers had a low fit with frog mouth pockets and the trouser hems had to be longer than front. It was common for Mods to refuse to let people know where they purchased their clothes from.

A popular brand choice for Mods was Fred Perry as he created breathable garments because they did not likre to sweat.

themodgeneration.co.uk 2009

 

Skinheads

Influenced by American astronauts, they wore regimental battle-wear.

deadriver91.blogspot.com

They wore Levi jeans, Dr Martens, braces,  ginghm button-down shirts, mohair suits with hankerchiefs and tartan. The size of the tartan worn determined the status in a skinhead crew.

com247.net

Their style was influenced by the arrival of the Windrush ship from the Caribbean which brought in  West Indians to do labour work. They came wearing porkie pie hats.

The short hair was a style statement which often meant short tempers.

skinheadin thesociety.blogspot.co.uk

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British Syle Genius: Part 4

By Royal Appointment

British style is often defined as classic country clothes and makes you think of the old England style and the Queen.

Designers such as Dolce & Gabbana made ‘Royal’ dressing fashionble.

Dolce&Gabbana Fashaddictblog.co.uk 2012

 

Barbour

The company was founded in 1854 by John Barbour who invented the first motorcycle jacket. State of the art technology and functionality are the most important factors in their designs.

Barbour, Birthnells

Barbour if the number one choice for Royals.

Princess Diana, millyfellintothewardrobe.blogspot.com 2011

The Queens fashion consist of:

  • Barbour jacket
  • Tweed skirt
  • Headscarf
  • Knitted twin-set
  • Pearls

    The Queen graziadaily.co.uk 2011

 

Tartan

The design has been associated with the Royals for 150 years. Queen Victoria wore a tartan dress at the age of 16.

Queen Victoria thecultureconceptcircle.com 2011

Tartan is a traditional British material  with great quality. It is used by British designers like Aleaxander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood.

Vivienne Westwood Tartan, V and A Museum

Alexander McQueen focus on style.com 

Aquascutum

The latin word translates into ‘watershield’ and was originally created for military purposes. The company was founded by John Emery in 1881 and began with the famous trenchcoat. The brand was essential during the first World War.

Aquascutum trenchcoat

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British Style Genius: Part 3

In Britain the fashion is seen as radical and rebellious. Those responsible for this description are designers Vivienne Westwood John Galliano and Alexander McQueen.

Vivienne Westwood

Vivienne Westwood, Whats in your wardrobe 2011

Westwood introduced the punk style in the 1970s and her goal was to break the rules.

She worked alongside Malcolm McLaren and they opened SEX on Kings Road.

Sex Boutique MyMetropole.com

 They made controversial clothing and on the streets people were arrested for wearing provocative t-shirts.

One of the most successful items was a pair of pants with a strap between the legs

Bondage Pants Metropolitsn Museum 2003

 

 

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British Style Genius: Part 2

A Cut Above: The tailored look

British style is religion in Japan and Paul Smith is the God. He is the most successful British designer in Japan

Paul Smith has taken a colourful playful approach towards tailored suits. He uses bright prints both inside and outside of suits along with the British flag and flowers.

Paul Smith suit dailyfashionandstyle.com 2010

Savile Row

The most famous street in London providing tailored garments was founded by Henry Poole. Tailored suits are exported worldwide.

The word ‘Savile’ means 3 piece suit in the Oxford dictionary. ‘The suit is the potent symbol of authority’.

Tailoring has been a tradition in London for many centuries

In the 1930-40s when the Golden Age of film existed Hollywood stars were drawn to Savile Row.

Fred Astaire fineanddandy.com 2011

Fred Astaire was a Hollywood entertainer who wore Savile Row tailored suits while dancing.

 

Until the 1960s tailored suits were worn by all working class.

postoffice.co.uk

Burton tailoring bought tailoring garments to the mass market.

All fabrics were woven in Britain for improved quality and remain to true British style.

 

Roger Moore as 007, The Art of Manliness 2008

James Bond was and still is a symbol of being well-dressed and elegant. The look was originally created on Conduit Street.

Michael Caine was another actor whose costumes were often tailored suits.

Michael Caine Archdezart.com 2012

Douglas Hayward designed the suits for Michael Caine in Alfie and the Italian Job (1969).

Douglas Hayward and Michael Caine, The Telegraph 2010

 

The process

Savile Row suits go through a long process. It is necessary for the designer to get the customers ‘blueprint’ which, includes the measurements, customers interests etc.

  • the fabric is cut by hand
  • several fittings
  • minimum of 8 weeks to produce

    The Japane Times Online by Paul McInnes 2011

 

In the 1980s european designers such as Giorgio Armani designed suits to become more relaxed than structured. Theremoved the dhoulder pads and left the jacket to fit loosely.

Giorgio Armani suit styleforum.com 2012

In the 1990s designers like Ozwald Boateng, Richard James and Timothy Edwards made tailoring ‘cool’. Suits became slimmer with slanted pockets which elongated the body.

Ozwald Boateng, The Telegraph 2011

Ozwald Boateng

Richard James suit The Telegraph 2010

Mannequin fitting Japan Times 2011

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British Style Genius Part 1

wallpaperstock.net

The video explores looks and trends which define British style from catwalk to high street.

In the UK the majority of fashion is purchased on the high street and high-end fashion is inspired to the elite.

Fashionfreax.net

The biggest provided of high street fashion is Topshop which belongs to the Arcadia Group. They remain one of the most successful in this fast paced environment because they provide looks straight from the catwalk but at affordable prices.

Collaborations with high fashion designers and models have increased their success, knowing what the public want and responding to it.

zeitgeist.on.cugar.com

The Topshop Loves Kate Moss collections proved to be successful because she was a high profile model whom many young people aspired to be in both life and style.

Kate moss posing in Topshop for collection launch, Nitrolicious.com

  • The launch of the collection saw Kate Moss posing as a mannequinn in the window of Topshops flagship store on Oxford Street. Many fans gathered outside to get a glimpse of the model.

Though Topshop leads the way it was originally Mary Quant in the 60s who inspired the idea of ‘teenage-wear’. Then it was non-existent and she used the then rare PVC in her designs.

Fabfrocks.blogspot.com 2009

 

Ozzie Clark

entelekia.wordpress.com 2008

” …not interested in the cost of a garment but how it makes the wearer feel”- Ossie Clark

Ossie the ‘master cutter’ a succesful designer of the 60s he collaborated with Celia Birtwell who was a print designer. His catwalks consisted of loud music and dancing models.

Ossie Clark and Celia Birtwell rockforfashion.com 2008

 

 

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